Between grapes and stone

The itinerary we suggest can be done by car or bicycle (for experts), starting in Gargagnago and reaching San Giorgio. Those who are really fit can proceed to Mazzurega, Cavarena di Sotto and Fontanelle, returning to Gargagnago at the end. The total distance is 9 km. You can also walk to San Giorgio in about 45 minutes-each way-taking a path off the main road not far from the church of Gargagnago which winds through the woods in the vajo Ragnino up to San Giorgio, 375m above sea level, and then enjoy a splendid view over the Valpolicella valley and Lake Garda.

By car or bike, starting in Gargagnago, you go past the parish church of Santa Maria della Misericordia (1378), which owes its Neoclassical features to Bartholomeo Giuliari (1820), and the Palladian villas will come to mind. After several hairpin bends you will reach San Giorgio di Valpolicella or Ingannapoltron. 

The local name traditionally refers to the fact that the town deceives (inganna) the lazy (poltron) because its location, on the summit of a hill, appears to be quite close while you're approaching, but in fact the road to get there is long and winding. Actually the term in ganna is an ancient word for "heaps of stones" and refers to the evident availability of limestone in the area.

The main feature of this beautiful hamlet is its early medieval pieve (parish church) which existed as early as the 18th century AD. This is testified by the inscription engraved on the columns of the ciborium above the altar. The church is made of local stone and has a monumetal bell tower and an exquisite cloister. Archaeological excavations have revealed a prehistoric settlement and a Roman sanctuary in this area. In the nearby Antiquarium you can see some of the finds and some inscriptions relating to the Arusnates, a population probably of Etruscan origin who manteined their own traditions and worshiped their own gods even after the arrival of the Romans. 

After your tour, take a moment to enjoy the panorama that sweeps from the vineyards on the underlying slopes right over to Lake Garda. The extent of the local wine production (Valpolicella Classico DOC, Amarone della Valpolicella, Recioto classico DOC), of the local limestone quarrying and of and the industrial plants for working marble from all over the world will be quite clear. In Sant'Ambrogio there is an exhibition area, initially built for a major marble exhibition, Marmomac and a so-called a School of Marble, founded by count Paolo Brenzoni in 1863.

San Giorgio is also famous for a fair which takes palce the second Sunday of November, Festa delle Fae, a local term for broad beans. Every household in the town receives a portion of a soup prepared with these legumes, onions, potatoes, lard and flour. The ritual distribution of this soup is already mentioned in the pastoral chronicles of the bishop of Verona Ermolao Barbaro in 1460. It is linked to the symbolism of broad beans, often associated with the dead and symbol of immortality.

If you want to visit the immediate surroundings on foot, look for the panels in village which display the various nature trails and their different grades of difficulty, time and distance. We suggest a long but interesting walk (2 hours round trip) on the eastern side of Monte Solane leading to the village of Mazzurega, birthplace of the poet Bartolomeo Lorenzi (1732-1821) and his brother Francesco, a student of the famous painter Gianbattista Tiepolo, and also the family town of Antonio Badile (1480-1560), teacher of Paolo Veronese. If you left the car in San Giorgio we advise you to return to the parking lot. If instead you left it in Gargagnago (3 hours round trip), 1 km after leaving the village you will get to a dirt road leading to an old abandoned house. Turning left you will reach the neighbourhood called Cavarena di Sotto, an area of quarries. After crossing a pine forest stop in Ca' Fontanelle, where there is a natural spring. Descend to Gargagnago to end your round trip. In this village you can have a good look at the local architecture with its barns courtyards with arched entrances.