Prehistory and present

You leave the northern ring road following signs to Fumane (4187 inhabitants) which lies in the valley of Progni, the local name for the many streams that run through this area. The origin of the name Fumane is still unclear but is probably due to the expression le fumane referring to the smoke (fumo) from charcoal making or perhaps to the low clouds that, after a storm, envelope the hills. The municipality includes the villages of Mazzurega, Cavalo, Molina and Breonio.

The area has been inhabited since prehistoric times, but it was when the Romans arrived that it started to flourish, thanks to the administrative autonomy granted by the Empire to the Pagus Arusnatium (the territory of the Arusnati) to which it belonged, according to three ancient inscriptions now preserved in the Maffeiano Museum in Verona.

From the 15th century onwards the town gentry decided to build villas and churches in Fumane. A splendid example is Villa della Torre. Giulio Della Torre inherited the property from the Maffei family in 1560 and added to the existing structures, following a project attributed to Giulio Romano.

Inside the villa there are open courtyards, a fish pond and a small oratory, attributed to Michele Sanmicheli. The rooms inside are renowned for the scary stone masks which frame the fireplaces, by Giovanni Battista Scultori.

In Fumane you can also visit the Shrine (Santuario) of Our Lady of La Salette, accesible form the town centre either on foot (30 minutes) or by car (10 minutes). The view across the valley from the terrace repays you for your effort. Leaving the village, after 9 km along the road to Molina (follow the directions) you will reach the prehistoric site of Grotta di Fumane (Fumane Cave), once also called Solina rocks shelter (Riapro Solinas) in memory of its discover. The cave was inhabited from 90,000 years ago, first by Neanderthals (Homo sapiens), Archeological excavations in recent years have recovered important information on the technology, subsistence strategies and the symbol behaviour of our Neanderthal cousins, who became extinct about 40,000 years ago.

The so-called Shaman painting on a slab of stone, found here and now preserved in the Paleontological Museum of S.Anna of Alfaedo is considered the oldest in Europe (more than 35,000 years old).

A few hundred metres back down the road you can follow a path that leads to Molina in about an hour's walk (one way). Make sure you have the appropriate walking shoes and clothes. Before you get to the village you will pass by the entrance to the Waterfall Park, opened in 1973 and classified by the European Union as a Site of Community Importance. It takes a couple of hours to walk along the well-marked paths and admire the stunning waterfalls and caves surrounded by a lush, green wood. 

The name Molina is linked to the ancient milling business (Molino means mill). Recently restored and opened to the public are the malga and two old mills, Molino dei Veraghi and Molin de'Lorenzo, where you can assist respectively to the production of cheese and the milling fo corn.

You can also get to Molina by car, and then continue to Gorgusello, which has maintained the appearance of a typical village of stone, and Breonio, where you can see the ancient church of San Marziale (13th century), the old malga, a hut where cheese was once made with local milk, now the headquarters of the Pro Loco (a cultural-community association) and the lavatoio, a characteristic community outdoor stone washbasin. The last stop we recommend is near Cavalo: the old church (chiesa vecchia), built in the 13th century and renovated between the 15th and 18th centuries. From here you can see the nearby Monte Pastello in all its beauty.

Back down to Fumane, and returning towards Verona, is the town of San Pietro in Cariano (12996 inhabitants), only 14 km from the city. Cariano perhaps takes its name from the late Latin Carilianus, namely land of Carilius.

In the neighbourhoods of Pedemonte, San Floriano, Corrubbio, Castelrotto and Bure there are some important monuments and while you are in the area you will also take in some enchanting views.

This territory has been inhabited since the Neolithic period and there are also many Roman and medieval remains, testimony to when Verona was ruled first by the Scala Family, then by the Republic of Venice. The beautiful, fertile land lead the Veronese patricians to build many villae here, since the 1st century BC. In 1983 a Roman country house was found under a vineyard. Known as Villa dell'Ambrosan, it had a system of underfloor heating, called Hypocaustum.

Mostly in private hands are some other mansions: the 17th century Villa Pullè Galtarossa in San Pietro in Cariano, the late 15th century Villa Giona Fagiuoli in Cengia near Pedemonte and finally Villa Serego Alighieri in Santa Sofia, Pedemonte, partially built according to a project of Andrea Palladio, 16th century. 

Not far from the last two villas is the village of Castelrotto, an ancient Lombard fort. From the top of the hill you can see the valley's vineyards and fruit trees while you sip a glass of wine.

Back down in San Floriano you cannot miss the Romanesque church (pieve). Built over a Roman temple, we know it already existed in 905 AD. If you look at the bell tower you can see the various building stages.

At the pieve we take the junction leading to Marano di Valpolicella (3113 inhabitants). The name comes from the Latin Marianus (Mario), that hints to a Roman origin. The major neighbourhoods are Valgatara and San Rocco. The hilly environment is characterized by orchards, olive groves and vineyards. We can suggest two itineraries for you to enjoy: one goes to Monte Castelon and Santa Maria Valverde, the other is a walk to the Tibetan Bridge that joins Valpolicella and Lessinia.

Monte Castelon is a hill in a very strategic location, an attractive site for human settlements from the Bronze Age to the Middle Ages. There have been several important archaeological findings, including a Roman temple dedicated to Minerva (hence the toponym Minerbe), destroyed probably in the 4th century AD during the era of Christian persecutions. Right on the top of the hill are the remains of a castle, hence the name Castelon, built in the 11th century, which became important during the rule of Federico della Scala and was destroyed in 1325, when Federico II dell out of favour. 

In the southern sector of the hill is Santa Maria di Minerbe, also called Santa Maria della Vaverde. The church was built in the 12th century, but the current structure dates back to 1682. For lovers of folklore, every year (the first Sunday after the 25th of April) a procession takes place from the church to the top of the hill where the trombini (similar to muskets) are fired.

The second suggestion for the day is a rather demanding path that leads to the Tibetan Bridge (52 m high and 70 cm wide) crossing the Rio Mondrago in the Valsorda. A unique piece of work, the bridge was sponsored by the municipalities of Marano and Sant'Anna d'Alfaedo and the Mountain Community of Lessinia with the aim of redeveloping the territory and boosting tourism. 

By car, you have to reach the locality of Girotto (having passed the village of San Rocco) and look for Malga Biancari, where there is a large car park. Not forgetting your hiking boots and appropriate clothing, a path starts here that will lead you to the bridge (a couple of hours there and back). Cross the bridge and enjoy the exciting bird's eye view of the gorge. Descending to explore the wooded gorge itself is another great experience.