Itinerary 3 : Fumane , San Pietro in Cariano , Marano

At the exit of the northern ring road, one continues on to Fumane (4187 inhabitants), which is located in the Progni valley, so called because of the richness of its waterways. The place-name Fumane is still debated, but probably derives from the expression 'le fumane', the fumes that rose during the production of charcoal from wood, or perhaps the low clouds that rest on the hills after a storm.

The municipality comprises the hamlets of Mazzurega, Cavalo, Molina and Breonio.
The territory has been inhabited since prehistoric times, but saw its greatest development in Roman times, thanks also to the relative administrative autonomy of the Pagus Arusnatium (territory of the Arusnati), of which it was part, as proven by three ancient inscriptions now con.servated at the Museo Maffeiano in Verona.

Starting in the 15th century, the nobility in Fumane decided to build villas and churches. A splendid example is Villa Della Torre: when Giulio Della Torre inherited the villa from the Maffei family in 1560, he had the pre-existing structures incorporated in a design attributed to Giulio Romano.

Inside the villa are several open courtyards, a fishpond and a small oratory, the authorship of which is attributed to Michele Sanmicheli. The interior rooms are renowned for their frightening masked fireplaces
attributed to Giovanni Battista Scultori.

In Fumane you can also visit the Sanctuary of the Madonna di La Salette, which can be reached from the village centre either on foot (30 minutes) or by car (10 minutes). Once at the panoramic terrace, the view over the entire valley repays the effort.
Leaving the village, after 9 km, continue in the direction of Molina and follow the signs to the prehistoric site known as Grotta di Fumane. Once called Riparo Solinas in memory of its discoverer, the cave was inhabited from 90,000 years ago first by Neanderthals (Homo neanderthalensis) and then by modern humans (Homo sapiens anatomically modern). The site, which is still the subject of archaeological excavations, continues to yield important information on the technology, subsistence strategies and symbolic behaviour of our Neanderthal ÒcousinsÓ, who died out around 40,000 years ago.

The most important painting artefact is the so-called 'Shaman', preserved at the Palaeontological Museum in S. Anna d'Alfaedo and considered the oldest in 0Europe (more than 35,000 years old).

Just downstream from the cave, a path can be taken on foot that leads to Molina in an hour's walk (one way), to be tackled with sports shoes and clothing. Before reaching the village, the path passes the entrance to the Waterfall Park, which was opened in 1973 and is classified by the European Union as a Site of Community Importance. Surrounded by greenery are breathtaking waterfalls and caves, which can be visited in about two hours of walking along well-marked paths.

Molina can also be reached by car, and from there continue to Gorgusello, which has retained the appearance of the typical stone village and Breonio, home to the ancient church of San Marziale (13th century), the old malga, now the seat of the Pro Loco and a characteristic stone wash-house.
The last recommended stop in the vicinity is Cavalo with its old church, built at the end of the 13th century with renovations between the 15th and 18th centuries. From here one can observe the overhanging Monte Pastello in all its beauty.

The place name Molina is linked to the ancient milling activity. Recently in the village the Malga, and the Molin dei Veraghi and the Molin de' Lorenzo, where it is possible to witness the production of cheese and the milling of corn for flour, respectively, have been restored and opened to the public (the churches of San Marziale and Cavalo can only be visited by appointment).

Returning to Fumane, and heading back towards Verona a couple of kilometres away is the municipality of San Pietro in Cariano (12996 inhabitants) just 14 km from the Scaliger capital. Cariano perhaps takes its name from the late Latin Carilianus, meaning land of Carilius.

In the hamlets of Pedemonte, San Floriano, Corrubio, Castelrotto and Bure, important monuments are preserved and many enchanting views can be enjoyed.
Inhabited since Neolithic times, the area has borne numerous Roman, Scaliger and Venetian testimonies. The beauty and productivity of these lands led the patricians of Verona to lay the foundations of many villae right here, starting in the 1st century BC. In 1983, a Roman residential complex called Villa dell'Ambrosan, equipped with 'underfloor heating' called Hypocaustum, was discovered in a vineyard area.
Remaining, mostly in private hands, are the 17th-century Villa Pullè Galtarossa at San Pietro in Cariano, the late 15th-century Villa Giona Fagiuoli at Cengia di Pedemonte, and finally Villa Serego Alighieri at Santa Sofia di Pedemonte, partially built to a design by Palladio from the 16th century onwards.
Not far from the last two villas is the village of Castelrotto, an ancient fortress fortified by the Longobards, on the summit of which one can observe the valley vineyards and fruit trees, also satisfying the palate while sipping a glass of wine.
On the way down to San Floriano, the Romanesque parish church is a must. Built on a Roman temple, its existence is attested as early as 905 A.D. and the various phases of construction over time are still clearly visible on the bell tower.

At the Pieve is the junction that leads to Marano di Valpolicella (3113 inhabitants). The name Marano derives from the Latin Marianus, from Mario, which would suggest a Roman land origin. The main settlements are Valgatara and San Rocco. The hilly environment is characterised by orchards, olive groves and vineyards.
There are two ways to enjoy the place: visit Monte Castelon and Santa Maria di Valverde or take a walk on the Ponte Tibetano bridge that joins Valpolicella and Lessina.
Monte Castelon is a hill in a strategic position, a privileged site for human settlements from the Bronze Age to the Middle Ages. It has yielded numerous archaeological finds, including a Roman temple dedicated to Minerva (hence the toponym Minerbe), probably destroyed during the Christian persecutions (4th century AD). In the summit area of the mountain are the remains of a castle, from which the toponym Castelon derives, built in the 11th century, which gained importance at the time of Federico della Scala, and which was destroyed in 1325, the year Federico fell into disgrace.

In the southern part of the hill is Santa Maria di Minerve, known as the Valverde. The church was built in the 12th century, but today's structure dates back to 1682. For lovers of folklore, every year (on the first Sunday after 25 April) there is a procession that starts from the church and arrives at the top of the same mountain where the 'trombini' (similar to blunderbusses) fire their rifles.

The second proposal for the day is a rather challenging path leading to the Tibetan bridge (52 m high and 70 cm wide) that crosses the Rio di Mondrago on the Valsorda. Unique in its kind, the work was promoted by the municipalities of Marano and SantÕAnna dÕAlfaedo and the Lessinia Mountain Community for a redevelopment of the area and to relaunch tourism.
Once you reach the Girotto locality (past San Rocco) by car, you will find Malga Biancari, flanked by a large car park: here begins a path that, with mountain boots and sports clothing, in a couple of hours (round trip), allows you to cross the bridge and enjoy the exciting 'bird's eye' view that the height offers, as well as exploring the wooded environment and the surrounding wet gorge